Excalibur 2 Project. Final Takedown.

Today was a good day at Excalibur 2. The weather was hot and steamy!

1. Roof Shingles removed to the dump site.
2. Rood trusses dismantled.
3. Wall Framing taken down.
4. Flooring removed.

Next Steps:

1. Lift the Floor Frame.
2. Remove the foundation concrete blocks.
3. Install the black plastic sheeting.

Framing 

Floor Frame. Not much of the insulation has survived. Why? Was it carted off by critters?

Excalibur 2 Project. Shack Rebuild Procedure

PROCEDURE FOR REBUILD OF THE EXCALIBUR SHACK (Known as EXCALIBUR 2)

I thought that this information would add huge value to the Knightlites archives and body of knowledge. After all, Amateur Radio covers not only radio, but a huge range of allied disciplines including the all important construction of the radio shack.

This information was compiled by Sir Marty W4MY. Marty has great experience in construction. The Knightlites have a fantastic range of experiences to draw on. Here is one very practical example. Thanks Sir Marty!

At this stage the shack has been disassembled down to the floor frame. This frame currently sits on concrete blocks a few inches above the ground. The timber used for the floor frame is pressure treated timber.

The original Excalibur 1 shack was a kit purchased from one of the hardware stores in the area and really intended as a garden shed. The aim now is to rebuild the shack and to make it more comfortable for the anticipated many amateur radio operations. Also to ensure that the shack will withstand the test of time.

Herewith the procedure from Sir Marty (format editions and small clarifications by N4HAY).

The rise of EXCALIBUR 2. Shack Rebuild Procedure

1.      Lift the floor off its present location and add an additional course of blocks to make the floor clear the ground by 6 inches.

2.      Put a single piece of 6 mil plastic sheet directly on the ground under the block stack.  If a single sheet is not possible, overlap the seams by12 inches.  

3.      Place rolled batten insulation and staple between the floor joists with the paper side facing the ground.  

4.      Install steel flashing between the top course of blocks and lowest part of the wood floor. This is for termite protection.  It comes in 6 inch wide strips about 30 gauge thick (1/16" approx).  It can be nailed to the bottom of the floor in the area where it will rest on the top course of concrete block.  

5.      Level is very important. Rig a simple "hydraulic" level to do this.  You need a bucket of water and about 20 feet of clear fish tank tubing.  

6.      Install the sub floor. This must be 5/8" C-D plywood with the "C" side facing up.  

7.      Place roofing tar paper sheet on top, overlapping about 6" and sealing with general purpose "roofing tar" commonly dispensed in a caulk tube. 

8.      Frame the walls, door, and windows on top of the sub floor.  

9.      Place OSB board on the outside of the wall framework.  

10.   Frame roof and ceiling.  Use 1/2" plywood on roof, not OSB.  

11.   Do not sheet ceiling or soffits at this time.  

12.   Install ridge vent, tar paper, drip edge and shingles on roof.  

13.   Structure is now "dried in"

14.   Install Owens Corning 1/2" foam board on top of OSB walls,

15.   Wrap entire four walls with Tyvek vapor barrier.  

16.   Cut out windows and door openings.  

17.   Seal edges of Tyvek with construction adhesive. 

18.   Install finish floor on top of tar paper with 1/2" "Pressboard". Not OSB

19.   Sheet facia and soffits and install soffit vents. 

20.   Install electrical wiring.   

21.   Install batt insulation on walls between the studs, paper side facing inside.  

22.   Install batt insulation between ceiling rafters with paper side facing down. 

23.   Sheet interior walls and ceiling with 3/8" drywall.  

24.   Finish interior drywall and seal.  

25.   Install siding to exterior walls,

26.   Paint/finish as required.  

27.   Finish floor (Linoleum suggested) 

28.   Hang windows and doors

29.   Finish interior trim.  

30.   Paint inside. 

31.   Move/Build furniture 

32.   Knightlights enjoy!

Excalibur 2 Project. Roof removed.

The roof has now been removed.

Thank you to the man (or woman) who invented the crow bar...

Next step will be to clean up and remove the roof trusses.

Phew this was good exercise!

Tools for the job. QROO, QRO, QRP, QRPp 

Hurricane!

Excalibur 2 Project. Siding removed

Good progress today. All the siding is now off. Next step is to remove the roof starting with the shingles.

AA4XX at the Key!

Excalibur 2 project. Termite inspection & siding (cladding) removal

A lot of work was carried out over the July 4th weekend. We have now established that although there is termite damage the timber frame is sound. We will definitely get termite treatment done to prevent any further damage. We also decided to remove the siding (cladding) in preparation for the correct installation of a vapor barrier. This should make the shack much more 'livable' and pleasant. Especially during winter. Currently we get a lot of moisture condensation in the shack. Maybe we will also put down a concrete base. This is the correct thing to do however the cost still needs to be assessed. There are a number of competing sub-projects here. 

Next weekend we should be able to complete the siding removal. We will then invite Marty W4MY to visit. Marty knows about construction and will give us invaluable advice. Thanks Marty (in advance :))

Our beloved hound 'Chaiya' keeping me company.

Siding removed from one side of the shack. A vapor barrier needs to be added. Maybe we will put down a concrete slab?

A hole cut in the floor to check for termite damage. It looks fine.

AA4XX OM Paul applying max persuasion!

Yeah we are not fooling around! Entry road clearance.

Is this stuff valuable? Dunno yet....removed from the shack including the door.

Oh No! Termite damage. Lesson learnt. Treat for termites. Always!

Valuable jewels extracted from the shack and now stored per kind favor of AA4XX

The Early Days in the shack at Excalibur

Carting away the fire burnt fiber glass thermal insulation. This stuff is an 'itch' to deal with. No fun..

Excalibur 2 Project. The grass is mown

Paul AA4XX has now spent time mowing the site. It looks fantastic. So now onto the shack clearing!

Excalibur 2 Project. Grass cleanup

Saturday and Sunday mornings were spent using a large rented weed eater to tame the small bushes, weeds and grasses at Excalibur. The weather was favorable today Sunday with a light misty shower in the air. I used a carbon tipped blade on the end of the weed eater to cut down the small bushes.

Next I will start on the shack clearing operation.

Excalibur 2 project. Antenna cleanup

Today I began to clean up the radio site at my friend Paul's (AA4XX) farm. This site is affectionately known as 'Excalibur'. This name stuck when we first deployed a 5 element full size beam for 20 meters. The tower was struck by lightning about 2 years ago. This started a fire in the shack causing internal damage to the shack. Luckily the exterior of the shack survived and is in excellent condition thanks to a coat of paint that Paul and his son gave to it.

I began by clearing away all the wires lying about the area. Many of these wires have been on the ground for the past 2 or 3 years and are thus embedded into the ground.

I also pulled down the existing remains of the wire antennas. These wires were deployed using weed eater plastic cord. Interestingly after 3 years this weedeater plastic is still very strong and does not appear to have deteriorated at all.

Much of the wire was from a topband radial system that Paul deployed. These radials consist of aluminum fence wire and is excellent and inexpensive for antenna applications.

Aluminum home brew wire feeder. Still in good condition and will be redeployed.

Recovered wire and cord from Excalibur site